Goshen’s Got a New Slice Game: The Fold Is Now Open
Goshen’s newest 21+ eatery blends New York-style pizza, bold toppings, and downtown energy.
After six months of anticipation and countless test pies, The Fold is open.
Roughly six months after purchasing the building at 219 S. Main St., Goshen, the new restaurant and bar serving East Coast-style pizza and more is in business.
The owner of Constant Spring approached Jesse Sensenig, founder and co-owner of Goshen Brewing Co., and offered a deal. Sensenig, with other family members and GBCo Chef (and co-owner) Jesse Shoemaker, purchased the building and started cleaning and remodeling. Shoemaker started creating the recipes, making countless pizzas, and making several trips to Chicago to research.
After several soft opening events, the restaurant opened quietly on Friday. Yep, on Goshen’s First Friday, the monthly downtown celebration. Maple Indian Cuisine did that years ago. It’s a bold move to open on the day of the month that brings the most people downtown. It’s doubly bold when GBCo’s tenth anniversary party was planned for Saturday. The soft opening events involved hundreds of people, including GBCo’s mug club members, all of whom were invited.
I’ve been watching the progress for months and tasting practice pizzas. Now, this place is open. I’m thrilled, and so are many others.
Here’s what you need to know about The Fold:
What’s pizza by the slice?
The now-closed Enzo Pizza offered pizza by the slice, but it’s been a rare sight locally. From the outset, this was the goal of Shoemaker and Sensenig. These slices are big, with a crisp outer edge and thin crust that is tender and chewy to hold a scant amount of sauce, cheese and other ingredients. These slices, which fill a nine-inch paper plate, are made to be folded (hence the name). Pizza by the slice offerings will vary by day. Once you order one for $5 to $7, it’s reheated in a small oven and served hot.
I’ve seen people eat two slices in one sitting, if they were hungry. One friend ate four, but he’s a clear outlier.
Can I get a whole pizza?
Yep. The 18-inch pizzas are $21 to $33, depending on the toppings. You can also build your own.
Do they have interesting combinations?
Oh yes. The familiar ingredients of pepperoni, mozzarella, sausage, and mushrooms are joined by hot honey, kalamata olives, and Calabrian chilies. There are red and white pizzas, based on the sauces used. I haven’t had all the combinations, but I already love the Tomato Pie, which has little cheese, and Pistachio Pesto and Mortadella.
What if I’m vegan or gluten-free?
The Fold has vegan red and white pizzas. I look forward to trying them.
Shoemaker has a nearly gluten-free crust that is getting rave reviews from those who can’t have gluten, but love pizza. The crust has structure and holds the toppings.
What else is on the menu?
The menu includes Caesar and Italian salads, pickle fries with ranch, and cheesy garlic bread made Detroit-style, with a crispy frico of cheese and tomato sauce, as well as more to dip the pieces in.
The wings, which are brined and fried, are phenomenal. They can be tossed in sauce or served “dry” with two sauces.
What are the hours?
The Fold will be closed on Tuesday and Wednesday, when GBCo is busy serving pad Thai or hosting live music. Mondays and Thursdays, hours will be 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 11 p.m. On Fridays, it’ll be 11 to 2 and 4 to midnight. Saturday will be noon to midnight and Sunday will be noon to 8 p.m. The weekday lunch hours will offer salads and pizza by the slice.
Are all ages allowed?
Not for dining The Fold is 21-and-over. All ages can order carry-out. The owners hope to allow under-21 some of the time, but Indiana excise laws don’t allow that.
What about the bar?
The actual concrete bar that was part of Constant Spring is gone, replaced by a lovely wooden bar. Green tile lines the back wall behind the bar. The overhang above the bar is available with limited seating. And the bar stools are really comfortable.
What about the drinks?
The Fold is offering cans and bottles of beer as well as about half a dozen beers on tap, mostly from brewers other than GBCo.
But don’t sleep on the wine and cocktails. The White Lotus, made with vodka and liqueur of both passion fruit and basil, is remarkable.
Does it have televisions?
It does. The owners hope to be a venue at which people will watch televised sports, including the NBA Playoffs with the Pacers.
What else do I need to know?
There’s a new vintage Ms. PacMan game in the “lounge” toward the front of The Fold. The lounge has comfortable seating for those waiting for a table or just those wanting to enjoy a drink and watch a game.
There is also outdoor seating in what used to be the alley.
Elkhart County didn’t have a place currently offering this kind of pizza. Elkhart County hasn’t had a place like this for a long time, if ever.
First Osteria Amici, now The Fold, and soon Tipsy Biscuit will open in its new
Goshen location. There are other places in the works too. I’m thrilled to see these new places, with bold flavors, opening.
I’m hungry. Let’s eat.
The Fold, 219 S. Main St., Goshen
The Fold is open Monday and Thursday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 11 p.m.; Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. to midnight; Saturday from 12 p.m. to midnight; and Sunday from 12 to 8 p.m. The restaurant is closed on Tuesday and Wednesday.
(574) 538-3950
Thanks for telling us about this place. I look forward to trying vegan options.
I got three slices on my first visit. That was a lot of pizza and I probably should have stopped at two, but c'est la vie.
Was hoping for a little more variety in the toppings -- more in line with the "traditional" of a place like Bruno's or Gerace's than the "traditional" neapolitan of Venturi -- but I certainly can't complain about what they've got here.